Kavaledurga Fort, Thirthahalli

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Kavaledurga Fort, also historically known as Bhuvanagiri, is an ancient 9th-century hilltop fortress hidden deep within the lush rainforests of the Western Ghats near Thirthalli in Shivamogga district of Karnataka. It is around 20km from Thirthahalli 

It is often defined as a ‘Sentinel’ fort. To clarify, historically, a sentinel fort is a small, strategically placed military outpost whose primary job isn't to withstand a massive, months-long siege, but to act as the "eyes and ears" of an empire or territory. Another fort that comes to mind is Jamalabad Fort although that fort is specifically defined as a watchtower fort (see my blog on Jamalabad fort)

Coming back to Kavaledurga, it was expanded and heavily fortified in the 14th to 17th centuries by the Keladi Nayakas. I am not aware of any famous battles that it encountered but today, it stands as an enchanting, offbeat trekking destination praised for its mist-covered ruins, moss-covered steps, and panoramic views of the western ghats.

 Approaching the fort entrance 


To begin with, once you reach here, you will have to park your bike/car nearby and pay a fee. I would strongly advise carrying your own water. The good news is that there are a couple of shops nearby that sell packaged drinking water along with the usual soft drinks and processed, packaged snacks (Chips, biscuits etc.)

Now that you have parked your vehicles, taken your water, you may start the trek. Did I say ‘trek’? Well, there is no road to the main gate. So you have to walk for about 200 meters just to reach the main gate across paddy fields. 

Cobbled path to the entrance


Bastions loom large as you approach


The entrance approaches

A wide cobbled stone path leads you to the main entrance. The path is wide and upon entering, there are other doorways that lead you to the now-defunct temples. 

Approaching the fort entrance 


 Approaching the fort entrance 


Entering the fort 


               

Sculptures at the sides of the fort entrance 





Once inside, you can see various structures, a Nandi statute and or other stone sculptures strewn around.
 



Water Bodies: Now, for any fort to sustain itself, it requires water bodies. This fort has many. 

I have deliberately refrained from calling them ‘kalyanis’ as they do not fit the description of a standard Kalyani. (I’m open to change if someone can explain)

Some of them are simply tanks with a walls or stepwells. One of them looks like what might have been some kind of a bath with steps leading down- essentially a smooth, T-shaped stepped stone tank and the pristine "Naga Teertha Kola" that remains filled with fresh water year-round. 


Stepwell 1





Video of stepwell 1

Stepwell 2

Stepwell 2


Steps leading down to stepwell 2


Stepwell 3

 Stepwell 4 (possibly a bath)


 Stepwell 4 

 Stepwell 4
  


Caution: While everyone talks about this area being all about snakes, you have to be careful about scorpions. I found these scorpion remains near these stepwells 

 


Ancient Temples: Kavaledurga fort houses beautifully preserved stone shrines including the Kashi Vishwanath, Vijaya Vittala, and the hilltop Srikanteshwara (Shikhareshvara) temple

The moment you cross the main entrance, The first building you encounter immediately after passing through the main inner gateways of Kavaledurga Fort is the Shikhareshwara Temple (also spelled Shikanteshwara). 


This picture was taken from a higher location 

Likewise, this video was taken from a higher location 

Approaching the temple




Sthalakhamba at the temple entrance 


Various views of the temple 

It was built in the traditional Keladi Nayaka architectural style with distinctive merlon-like roof projections, it sits in a walled compound preceded by a colonnaded entry and two free-standing stone pillars. 


Next Destination: Inner parts of the fort and first view point. 
  




We now come to Lakshminarayana shrine. Built on a small rocky outcrop. It also offers a panoramic view of the surroundings.  

Lakshminarayana shrine 

Next stop: Palace Ruins
Now that the temple visit is complete, we progress to the next level entrance - the ones that lead us to the ruins of what once might have been palace ruins: All around you will see foundations and pillars strewn of what might have been royal quarters, guard rooms etc. but I am not qualified to say what these ruins lodged (palace or otherwise). 
Ruins



 





Last Destination: The highest viewpoint 

This part of the fort is restricted. The reasons given are flimsy and honestly, they insult the human mind. Reasons given are: 
a. The path is slippery (Rubbish, it is very safe) 
b. They claim that it is pending development (Really, how so? It has clear steps and footpaths.) 
c. Lastly, they put up a picture of a tiger. (Again, I asked around, there has been no reported sightings of any tiger. and it's not like a tiger will be restricted to only that part of the fort.)    
Apparently these signs have been put up for more than a year. I fail to see why the paying public is given restricted access 

So, let me show you the signs put up and then proceed to show you pics and videos of the summit which is easily the highlight of the fort visit. 





Having said that - I went on a peak summer afternoon and was able to visit this place as it was deserted. Please don't push your luck as the fort has security personnel (to keep a tab on lovers more than the fort I was told) and personnel from the ASI often visit the place. 
Hope these pics and videos help. Let's start 

    
As mentioned, there is a stepped path towards the summit 

Walking towards the summit 

View of the summit as you approach it 

Dilapidated ruins near the summit 

The shrine at the summit 





View from the highest viewpoint

View from the highest viewpoint





Side view of the shrine at the summit 

Random path towards the summit 


Now that the various parts of the fort have been covered, let us have a look at some random pics and videos of the fort   


Random path towards the summit 

Close up of the fort wall with firing slits 


Random view from the bastion  










A minor caveat: When you pay the entrance/parking fees, right closeby, you will have a shopkeeper who sells packaged drinking water and other soft drinks. Do not buy from him as he charges a higher amount. 😠
About 50m further up, you will see a small shop run by the local landowner there called Mamta Acharaya. She is a sweet, chatty person who sells everything cheaper. Very ethical lady and will give you gyan on what to see in the vicinity. I took her permission to photograph her and requested that I post it on my blog.Given below is her picture and her shop. She is helpful and full of animated conversation 😀







Miscellaneous information

  • Nearest Petrol Bunk & Puncture Shop: Thirthahalli Town (20 km away) But with the passage of time, newer ones have opened up 
  • Nearest Hotel: Thirthahalli limited options. 
  • Nearest Police Station: Thirthahalli 
  • Local Hotels for Stay: Thirthahalli (but many homestays in the vicinity. (use Google maps) 

Pros:

a)  a) Easy to approach with ample parking place at the foot of the hill.
b) Safe: I have been there only once and have not encountered any hostility or faced any shady characters. 

I recommend going in the monsoons but be careful of leeches   

Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/o2jreVCrxGBmsWcz6 













Location: Kavaledurga, Kavaledurga, Karnataka 577414, India

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